“When the wind touches the surface of the sea, it causes ripples. When the wind continues to push the ripples forward, and gravity pulls them down, they turn into waves and swells. And the waves keep moving for miles and miles in an ocean until they find a shore and break against it.
When a wave reaches shallow water, its bottom hits the ground and slows down. But its top keeps going on at the same speed and topples over at the shore. That’s what makes the frothy breaker.
A wave can travel for many days and for thousands of miles, but the sea always stays in one place. That’s simple! If two people hold a rope at the two ends and one of them gives it a sudden push, you can make waves, but the rope remains in the same place, doesn’t it?”